Thank you all for some great methods, Dave I think the sheet Bob was refering to was the sidecalc one, I will adapt it to do the output part in metric, I like the idea of taking a measurement off the back set in the dish as well.
Many Thanks
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| Author: | RussellR [ Tue Sep 20, 2005 10:35 am ] |
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In the past I ahve been lazy here and relied on templates I got from plans etc. Mt thinking is if I change the radius of a back presumabley I have to change the taper I pre cut on the sides to match that radius ? Is there a way to work this out ? You thoughts would be very much appreciated. |
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| Author: | Bobc [ Tue Sep 20, 2005 11:39 am ] |
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Russell I used to have a spreadsheet that I got from Mike Doolin's website to do just that. I bought a new PC and forgot to save the link to his website and the excel file. Maybe someone else still has the link. |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Tue Sep 20, 2005 12:45 pm ] |
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Another technique is to tape over the entire side of one of your existing instruments that you like the profile of with a compatable masking tape, then peel the tape and flatten it out onto your template material. This is an old cobblers trick for deveolping the patterns for shoe uppers, so I'm told. You'll need to use multiple layers in order to hold the tape together. I use this technique for fitting bridge patches between my X braces, works great. |
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| Author: | Dave White [ Tue Sep 20, 2005 4:05 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=Bobc] Russell I used to have a spreadsheet that I got from Mike Doolin's website to do just that. I bought a new PC and forgot to save the link to his website and the excel file. Maybe someone else still has the link.[/QUOTE] Are these the ones? Doolin Theory Doolin Spreadsheet A way that I use is to take the braced back cut to shape and put it in my go bar deck held down in the middle. Then I make up a long strip of paper (I use stiffish poster type paper) about 3" high that will go around one side of the back. The next bit probably requires a helping hand to hold and keep pressure on the paper. Wrap the strip around on side so that it is perpendicular to the back (as a side would be) and using a half pencil follow along the back where it meets the paper marking, with a mark at the neck block centre point and at the tail block centre point. You have to be a little careful where there are braces at the end - keep the pencil flat and leave gaps here you can fill in by eye when the paper comes off. This gives a profile you can cut out and use on the side or you can use it to make a more substantial template. If the guitar has a cutaway you'll have to make a template for each side. This method gives a pretty good approximation that you can fine tune by shaping the sides roughly and using the back to get a perfect fit. Then you can make a full template from the sides. Hope this makes sense/helps. |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Tue Sep 20, 2005 6:58 pm ] |
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Thank you all for some great methods, Dave I think the sheet Bob was refering to was the sidecalc one, I will adapt it to do the output part in metric, I like the idea of taking a measurement off the back set in the dish as well. Many Thanks
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